How to build a simple flickering lamp for a structure
Following these instructions gives you a structure that has fairly dim flickering. I have found this technique good to use in small structures, especially those that aren’t very deep. Comstock Construction Co. of Ione, Calif., sells nice redwood store-fronts and facades in which I have used this technique. (See my thoughts on structures and on canisters.)Click on the pictures below to get an enlarged version.
Bill of materials
• One Smart Candle T-Lite (available at Walgreens).
• One 330-ohm resistor.
• One bridge rectifier (at least 20 volts; at least 1 amp).
• One, 18-inch length 20-gauge stranded copper wire (speaker wire).
• Two pieces, one-inch each, 1/8-inch heat-shrink tubing.
• Solder, paste flux, silicon caulking, glue, staples, paint, masking tape.
• White enamel paint (rattle can is perfect).
• One structure with windows and/or open doors.
Tools
• Soldering iron or soldering gun.
• Needle-nose pliers.
• Wire cutters.
• Small screwdriver set; flat-blade and Phillips.
• Outdoor glue.
Instructions
• Visit the page on how to dissassemble a T-Lite.
• On the bridge rectifier, trim the positive and negative leads (usually marked + for the positive and nothing for the negative) to about one-quarter inch; bend the input leads (usually marked with the tilde ~) 180-degrees, so they are pointed toward the top of the rectifier.
• Solder the positive lead of the rectifier to the positive position on the circuit board (see drawing); solder the negative lead to the negative position on the circuit board.
• Trim one of the input leads of the rectifier to about one-half inch; wrap the lead of one end of the resistor around the rectifier lead, apply flux and solder it.
• Separate the two leads of the speaker wire on one end by one inch. Clip off one-half inch of one of the leads and strip off one-quarter of an inch of insulation; slip one of the heat-shrink tubes onto that lead. Wrap the bare wire around the other end of the resistor’s lead, flux and solder. Push the heat-shrink tube down over the bare wire and resistor (all the way to the rectifier) and heat with soldering iron/gun until it shrinks.
• Strip one-quarter inch of insulation off the other speaker wire lead, slip the other heat-shrink tube onto it, wrap the bare wire around the other rectifier lead, flux and solder. Slip the tube back over the soldered leads and apply heat until it shrinks to cover.
• Open your structure in some manner; if you’re scratch- or kit-building the structure, leave an opening (hinge the roof; don’t attach to base), or if you’re using a pre-built structure, remove the roof or the base.
• Paint the interior of the structure with white paint (mask windows and/or doors so the paint doesn’t drip onto the exterior).
• Find a spot on a wall adjacent to a window that has a broad expanse of white wall opposite; mount the T-Lite using glue, brads or staples.
• Reattach the roof/base and run the speaker wire through a crack or make a small hole.
• Connect the speaker wire to your garden lighting circuit. (See my thoughts on low-voltage garden electrical connections.)
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